Phaseolus vulgaris 'Provider'

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Phaseolus vulgaris 'Provider'
Phaseolus vulgaris Provider.jpg
Caption
Hardiness zone: 3-12[1]
Mature height: 18"[1]
Maturity: 50-55 days[2]
Pollination: Self-pollinating[3]
Life cycle: Annual[2]
Seeds/pound: 1370[4]
Isolation distance: 10'[3]

Phaseolus vulgaris 'Provider' (common name: provider bush bean) is an easy-to-grow open pollinated[3] cultivar of the common bean. It has a bush bean style growth and is planted for its abundant harvest of 5-6" green beans with round, straight pods that are eaten fresh or preserved by freezing or canning.[4][2] The plant adapts well to diverse soil and climate conditions, is highly resistant to powdery mildew and the bean mosaic virus, and germinates well in cooler soil allowing for a dependable crop that can be planted and harvested early in the growing season.[4][2]

The variety was introduced in 1965 or 1966 by Dr Hoffman, a horticulturist at the United States Vegetable Laboratory. The plant has a complex parentage that includes 'Valentine', 'Logan', 'Ashley Wax', 'Asgrow St. Greenpod' and 'Commodore'.[2][5]

Growing

Planting

Select a site in full sun with well-draining soil with a pH between 6.5-6.8.[4] The site should be at least 10' away from other Phaseolus crops to prevent hybrid seeds from cross-pollination.[3]

Plant after the last frost date and once daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F. Optimum soil temperatures for germination are between 70-90°F with the risk of poor germination increasing outside of that range. Seeds with darker coloring germinate better in cooler soils than the lighter seeds.[4][6] When selecting a planting spot, good companion plants include carrot, cucumbers, or corn, and avoid planting near onions.[1]

Prepare the bed before planting, and add fresh compost for best results.[7]

Inoculate seeds with mycorrhiza spores while planting to allow the plant to fixate nitrogen into the soil and to increase harvest yields.[1][4] Sow seeds 1" deep. If using the square foot gardening method, make 9 holes per square foot with two beans per hole.[7] If planting in rows, sow 2" apart with 2-3' spacing between rows. Wider row spacings help promote air circulation for better white mold control. For a continuous harvest, make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks through summer. Seeds should germinate 7-12 days after planting.[1]

After germination, maintain soil moisture and water at least once a week during dry weather.[1] Plants need about 1" of rain per week during the growing season.[8] Its best to water with drip irrigation to avoid getting the foliage wet to minimize spreading any diseases.[8] Use mulching to help conserve moisture and discourage opportunists.[1]

Rotate crop location every three years, preferably with corn and grain crops.[4]

Troubleshooting

Mexican bean beetles can heavily feed on the leaves,[4] but their populations can be controlled by attracting beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, eulophid wasps, and minute pirate bugs to prey upon their eggs and larvae, as well as toads, birds, and spined solider bugs to serve as general predators. Inter-planting marigolds, nasturtiums, petunias, and rosemary to act as an aromatic confuser may help to deter the beetles. Planting soybeans nearby as a trap crop can be effective, as well as handpicking individual insects if growing a small crop, spreading diatomaceous earth near the plants, and using a neem oil spray on the plants can also be effective.[9]

Avoid over-watering as the beans easily rot in wet soil and minimize any contact with the plant when wet to avoid spreading diseases.[1]

It is very common for bush beans to throw runners in wet springs but should as the weather stabilizes.[8]

Rabbits can eat the tender new leaves. A rabbit fence may be necessary to keep them from ruining your crop.[10]

Harvesting

Young, immature pods can be harvested and eaten as green beans. Select beans when they are no thicker than a pencil in thickness or when 4-8" long and while they still have a snap when bent.[1] Avoid beans that have started taking shape inside the pod as the beans become tough and stringy when they grow larger.[10] Prepare or preserve the same day for the freshest taste, though they can be kept in the refrigerator for a week after harvesting.[10] The plant will die once it has successfully seeded, so harvest pods regularly encourages the plant to set more pods.[4][7]

Do not harvest while plants are wet as this causes bean rust, anthracnose or blight, and helps to spread mosaic.[6]

Near the end of the growing season, allow the pods to mature fully and to dry completely on the vine. The pods will be light brown and the seeds will rattle inside. Remove the seeds from the pods and allow the beans to dry further. Store in a cool, dry place for up to a year.[1]

After harvest

Cut the the top part of the plant at its base at the end of the season to compost to help destroy any diseases organisms.[7][4] Allow the roots to decompose in place to allow the fixated nitrogen to improve the soil.

Using

Nutrition Facts.png
Serving Size 100 g
Amount Per Serving
Calories 40 Calories from Fat 0
% Daily Value *
Total Fat 0 g %
Trans Fat 0 g %
Cholesterol 0 mg %
Sodium 7 mg %
Total Carbohydrate 8 g %
Sugars 2 g
Protein 2 g
Vitamin A 759 mcg 84%
Vitamin C 4.6 mg 5%
Calcium 10.4 mg 1%
Iron 0.3 mg 2%
Potassium 58.5 mg 1%
*Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet.

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Culinary

Immature seed pods of the plant are edible.

Soil improvement

When seeds are planted with an inoculate, this plant fixes nitrogen from the atmosphere into the soil.

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References